Today, Katie awoke at 5:30am, but I had the sense to sleep through another half hour. It was still wet and dreary from the night before but no sign of bear activity. Katie informed me that I snored last night – probably due to the fact that my nose is stuffy and that I slept in a new, camping variant of the fetal position.
We were on our way by 8:30am. The first stretch had a mild grade descent through forest that eventually opened up to rock beds and glacial rivers. These were relatively easy to traverse once we found the trail and ignored obsolete cairns. Katie and I chatted about concerts (George Strait and Lady Gaga), our novels (on Communism and on France), and antics about those we know and love. Eventually, the trail began to ascend again alongside Winthrop glacier, which made me stop my talking to keep my breath along the switchbacks.
We continued onward to Granite Creek, where Katie used the ‘plush facilities’, and I attempted a failed water purification session. The next set of switchbacks was far milder, meandering through meadows with chipmunks and squirrels. Katie dug up a locust grub from the trail and relocated it to the grass, but I’m fairly certain it will become a meal to something soon if it hasn’t already.
We reached the top of the ridge just as a wall of fog was moving over it, so we navigated our first intense, steep snowfield in minimal visibility. The trail was heavily stomped for us, but we took care anyway to be extra careful. We spotted two marmots on the boulder formations here before dropping into a grassy valley. Katie ran into a physical therapist and asked him a few questions as I slowed down to take in the scene. When we met up again, the fog was still moving in and out (the changing visibility added a dynamic edge to our experience), obscuring the field and mountains. We were approached directly by a curious marmot that jumped onto our path and came within 10 feet. I took a few close-up photos but Kate was wary and made some clacking noises to drive it into the bushes – better for its own safety. As we approached the frozen lake, we began meeting more day hikers, some of whom took pictures of us.
I began accelerating when I saw the Sunrise Visitor Center below us from the Sourdough Trail. Katie is a bit sunburned, and I probably will be, too. But, the food (Boca burger and sundae for Katie; chili dog and root beer float for me) were supplemental calories well appreciated and needed after the long day.
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